Although travelers can try dishes from around China and the globe in renowned food cities Beijing and Shanghai, it is outside these major metropolises where a world of exciting Chinese cuisine awaits the true foodie。
雖然在北京和上海這樣聞名的美食城市,游客就能品嘗到中國及世界各地的美味,但只有在這些大城市以外的地方,吃貨們才能品嘗到最好吃的中國美食。
With this in mind and after three years of living in China and writing about Chinese food, I embarked on a six-month journey with my husband and two daughters。
懷揣著這種想法,又因?yàn)樵谥袊盍巳瓴⑶乙恢痹趯懼袊朗诚嚓P(guān)文章,我就跟老公還有兩個(gè)女兒開始了一次為期半年的旅行。
We loaded up a campervan and set out from Shanghai on July 1. We've since covered more than 20,000 kilometers and 21 provinces in our quest to see China's most remote and beautiful areas, and to taste the different regional foods along our way。
7月1日,我們坐上一輛露營車便從上海出發(fā)了。這段20000多公里的旅程穿越了21個(gè)省份,一路上我們游玩了中國最偏遠(yuǎn)最迷人的地方,也品嘗了不同地區(qū)的美食。
1. Chengdu, Sichuan Province
四川省成都市
Crowned as Asia's first UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2010, Chengdu is best-known for its fiery hot pot and spicy dishes, which are characterized by the use of Sichuan pepper and are usually layered with salty, sour and sweet flavors. There are also dishes that aren't spicy at all, such as beer-braised duck。
成都在2010年聯(lián)合國教科文組織列為“美食城市”,這是亞洲第一個(gè)獲此殊榮的地方,成都以其麻辣火鍋和辛辣菜肴而聞名。四川菜的特點(diǎn)就是用很多川椒,咸辣酸甜、口味多樣。當(dāng)然,有些川菜一點(diǎn)也不辣,比如啤酒燜鴨。
The streets hold more than 100 varieties of street snacks, from savory jelly noodles to "dragon lifting a hand" (poached wontons drizzled in toasty chili oil, pepper corns and green onion)。
成都街頭至少有上百種特色小吃,比如酸辣粉,還有“龍抄手”(水煮餛飩淋上辣椒油、胡椒和蔥花)。
Chef Yu Bo is a must-go. The high-end restaurant cooks sophisticated Sichuan food with awe-inspiring presentations: abalone on spiced mung bean jelly, crispy ginseng root, and tiny spheres of apple poached in syrup tinged with fiery notes of green Sichuan pepper。
來成都一定要去喻家廚房,這家高級餐館專做工序復(fù)雜的川菜,例如鮑魚涼粉、爽口人參,還有水煮江團(tuán)。
Hot pot is as ubiquitous in the city as the smell of chili. At Zigong Delicious Hotpot, the house specialty tiaoshui wa is a cauldron of fiery chili to which vegetables, noodles or other meats can be added。
在這個(gè)城市火鍋隨處可見,到處彌漫著辛辣的氣息。在自貢好吃客,特色菜跳水蛙就是往火鍋里加入大量辣椒、蔬菜、粉絲還有蛙肉等等。
For a real taste of Sichuan's signature pepper, hua jiao, spend a morning at the Chengdu Spice Market where the locals sell and buy it by the sack。
想要真正品嘗到四川有名的花椒,可以早上去成都調(diào)料市場,那里有成包成袋的花椒在賣。
2. Lanzhou, Gansu Province
甘肅省蘭州市
Synonymous in the minds of food-lovers with hand-pulled beef noodles, Lanzhou also has one of the liveliest street food night markets in China。
說起蘭州,吃貨就會想到手搟牛肉拉面。蘭州的街頭夜市小吃攤也非常的活躍。
Just west of the city center, the buzzing Zhengning Lu bazaar houses more than 100 street food stalls. On offer is a broad selection of hot and cold dishes with emphasis on local Hui cuisine。
市中心往西的正寧路夜市上,少說也有上百個(gè)小吃攤位。小吃攤有各色冷熱菜肴,全都是回族美食。
Highlights include whole grilled fish seasoned with aromatic cumin and sesame paste (RMB 25, US$4), sweet, hot bowls of nai zhou (milk rice with sultanas, peanuts, sesame seed and beaten egg, RMB 8) and flaky pastry rou bing stuffed with meat (RMB 2)。
特色美食有茴香芝麻烤全魚(25元/4美元)、牛奶雞蛋醪糟(用牛奶、雞蛋、醪糟一起煮,還放了葡萄干、銀耳、芝麻,8元),還有夾肉香酥千層餅(2元)。
No trip to Lanzhou is complete without feasting on noodles at Wumule Penhui, the 2012 winners of Lanzhou's annual pulled noodle competition. The halal restaurant makes noodles spicy enough to satisfy even the most hardened heat-seekers。
在蘭州不吃烏穆勒鵬輝的拉面就算不上到過蘭州,烏穆勒鵬輝是2012年蘭州拉面比賽的冠軍。這家清真面館的面條非常辛辣,哪怕是最嗜辣的吃客都能被辣倒。
3. Guangzhou, Guangdong Province
廣東省廣州市
The birthplace of Cantonese food, Guangzhou is thought by many as the best place to eat in China. The city of 12 million has a passionate food culture, with equal excitement reserved for the opening of a hole-in-the-wall congee joint and a high-end restaurant。
作為粵菜的發(fā)源地,廣州被認(rèn)為是中國最好的美食城市之一。這座120萬人口的城市擁有相當(dāng)豐富的美食文化,出色的粥店和高檔餐館隨時(shí)敞開大門歡迎人們光臨。
The local cuisine is characterized by fresh clean flavors, seafood, barbecued meats and the wonderful tradition of yum cha, which is tea drinking accompanied by dumplings and small dishes。
廣東菜的特點(diǎn)是口味清淡,有海鮮、烤肉以及傳統(tǒng)飲茶等,配上餃子和小菜。
Congee is the way locals love to start their day, and one of the most popular vendors is Ru Xuan Sha Guo Zhou. Here, one can get a bowl of signature seafood congee any hour of the day。
當(dāng)?shù)厝嗽缟舷矚g喝粥,最受歡迎的要數(shù)如軒砂鍋粥。在這里,任何時(shí)候都能喝到招牌海鮮粥。
Yum cha addicts are spoiled for choice but the extensive selections at both North Garden Restaurant (where shrimp dumplings are the specialty) and Bing Sheng are exemplary。
嗜好飲茶的人可去的地方很多,但最典型的還是北園酒家(以蝦餃為特色)和炳勝品味。
Roast meats are Bing Sheng's most popular order -- their roast goose is marinated with five-spice, boiled, air-dried, then roasted by a flame oven to give a succulent crisp skin。
炳勝品味最拿手的是烤肉,他們的烤鵝經(jīng)過五香腌制、水煮、風(fēng)干后才上烤架,皮脆肉嫩。
For something more home style and removed from the madness of downtown, head to Ji Cun for steamed chicken and simple farmer-style dishes。
若想遠(yuǎn)離市中心的喧囂,體驗(yàn)農(nóng)家風(fēng)味,可以到雞邨大飯店品嘗蒸雞和清淡的農(nóng)家菜。
4. Turpan, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region
新疆維吾爾自治區(qū)吐魯番
Lying on the northern Silk Road en route to the trading hub of Kashgar, the laidback town of Turpan has the best Uyghur food in Xinjiang. Dozens of open-air restaurants serve halal fare next to the main bazaar。
在新疆通往喀什貿(mào)易中心的北絲綢之路邊上,散落著的吐魯番小鎮(zhèn)出產(chǎn)最美味的維吾爾美食。大型集市邊上有許多價(jià)格便宜的露天餐館。
Browse the stalls for central Asian specialties like lamb kawop and crispy rounds of nang bread, served alongside less well-known local favorites like banshi (mutton wontons served in a light tomato broth topped with black-eyed beans and cilantro) or lamb, which is marinated in saffron and yoghurt and cooked until it falls tenderly apart in the tonur oven。
一路走過小吃攤,你會看到中亞特有的烤羊肉和馕,跟不太大眾的當(dāng)?shù)厥称?羊肉餛飩番茄湯加黑豆與香菜)或羊羔肉,羊羔肉用藏紅花和酸奶腌漬并燉煮而成,非常鮮嫩。
Finish with a bowl of fresh set yoghurt。
最后還可以來一大碗新鮮酸奶。
The extremely dry county grows China’s sweetest grapes with the harvest spectacle taking place in early to mid-September。
這個(gè)中國最干燥的地方產(chǎn)有最甜的葡萄,每年九月中旬便迎來葡萄大豐收的景象。
5. Datong, Shanxi Province
山西省大同市
Shanxi is home to one of China's great eight cuisines, jin cai, characterized by the liberal use of vinegar, round breads and pastries (known as bing) and hundreds of varieties of noodles。
山西晉菜是中國八大菜系之一,特點(diǎn)是擅于用醋,有各種饃饃、大餅和各種做法的面條。
Located in north of the province, industrial city Datong is an unassuming choice for dedicated Chinese foodies, with a burgeoning number of restaurants serving innovative and elegant jin dishes。
大同是一座工業(yè)城市,位于山西省北部,美食實(shí)在地道,現(xiàn)如今推出創(chuàng)新精致晉菜的餐館也越來越多了。
Phoenix Court, housed in an intimate Ming Dynasty mansion since 1518, serves the most refined jin cuisine in Datong。
在始于明朝1815年的鳳臨閣能品嘗到大同最美味的晉菜。
Specialties are the delicate chrysanthemum shao mai (steamed dumplings favored by the Empress Cixi when she last visited), and the unusual yangsheng hulusi, which is carefully coiled shredded bottle gourd dressed with aged Shanxi vinegar, chilies, and finely sliced scallions。
特色菜有可口的菊花燒賣(據(jù)說慈禧太后最后一次駕臨山西時(shí)非常喜歡),還有特別的養(yǎng)生葫蘆絲(佐以山西陳醋、辣椒和細(xì)細(xì)的蔥花)。
Across town the 500-seat Yonghe Fine Food City gives a new spin on traditional dishes, with must-tries like golden millet pudding studded with tiny orange sea buckthorn berries。
市區(qū)的永和美食城能容納500人,菜肴推陳出新,招牌菜有沙棘黃米飯,米飯里有小小的沙棘漿果。
6. Qingdao, Shandong Province
山東省青島市
This is one of China's best seafood cities. There is no better accompaniment to the city’s refreshing brew, Tsingtao, than the local shrimp, clams, geoducks, sea cucumbers and crayfish。
青島有中國最美味的海鮮。這里還有無與倫比的爽口青島啤酒、對蝦、蛤蜊、扇貝、海參還有淡水小龍蝦。
At Qingdao's Haidao restaurant, choose the catch of the day from the tanks, request a method of cooking (if unsure, the restaurant will help), sit down with a jug of beer then wait to see what turns up。
在青島的海島漁村,你可以自己從水箱里挑選當(dāng)天新鮮海味,選擇自己喜歡的烹飪方法(如果拿不定主意,店家可以幫忙),然后邊喝啤酒邊坐等美味上桌。
The emphasis is on preserving the seafood's fresh taste so don't expect a lot of complex heavy sauces. Instead, enjoy gala (local clams cooked with garlic and a little chili), or wok-fired shrimp with scallions。
為確保海鮮口味純正,千萬別放太多調(diào)料。推薦當(dāng)?shù)氐乃馊馗蝌刍蚴[爆蝦,味道很不錯。
For those who love to smell brine and hear the creak of rigging with your seafood, Xiao Gang Pier in northern Qingdao is lined with fishing boats selling directly from their decks。
如果你想一邊品嘗海鮮、一邊伴著咸咸的海風(fēng)聽船槳聲,可以去青島北邊的小港海鮮市場,那里有成排的漁船,甲板上出售各種海產(chǎn)品。
7. Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province
浙江省紹興市
This ancient canal city is home to huangjiu, an amber-colored rice wine that's ubiquitous in Chinese cooking。
這座大運(yùn)河畔的老城是黃酒的發(fā)源地,黃酒是一種琥珀色的米酒,是中國烹飪的必備調(diào)料。
Experience the history of 2,000 years of winemaking and taste aged wines at the Yellow Rice Wine Museum before enjoying a meal at the legendary Xianheng restaurant。
在去著名的咸亨酒店饕餮之前,一定要先去黃酒博物館感受一下2000年的釀酒史、品味一下陳年酒釀。
Open since 1894, the dining chain is known by almost every Chinese for its appearance in early 20th century novels by Chinese literati Lu Xun。
咸亨酒店始建于1894年,得名于中國文學(xué)家魯迅在20世紀(jì)寫過的某篇小說,在中國可謂家喻戶曉,現(xiàn)在已發(fā)展成為連鎖店了。
Xianheng's delicacies include crispy-skinned chicken, smoked red dates in rice wine, beans flavored with fennel, and crispy bream in rice wine。
咸亨酒店的招牌菜有脆皮雞、酒醉紅棗、茴香豆還有香酥黃酒漬鳊魚。
Fried fermented tofu is also a local specialty, which is available all over town at small street stalls including one just outside Xianheng。
油炸臭豆腐也是當(dāng)?shù)匾淮筇厣,市?nèi)大街小巷到處都有臭豆腐攤,咸亨酒店外也有。
8. Dazhai, Guangxi Province
廣西省大寨鄉(xiāng)
Not technically a city, but Dazhai is the best destination in China to enjoy fresh food as well as a stunning natural landscape on one trip。
大寨嚴(yán)格意義上來說并不是一座城市,但在這里不僅能欣賞到美麗的自然風(fēng)光,還能品嘗到新鮮的綠色食品。
The village is about three hours from Guilin by car and is at the base of the remote "Dragon's Backbone" rice terraces。
從桂林開車大概三個(gè)小時(shí)就到了大寨——周圍是被譽(yù)為“龍脊”的梯田。
Here, the Yao minorities grow, make and forage everything they eat, including rice, tea, fern shoots, wild mushrooms and liquor brewed from wild berries。
在這里,瑤族人自給自足,種植并生產(chǎn)大米、茶、筍、蘑菇,還能用野莓釀酒。
Vegetables are plucked by farmers from the earth next to dining tables which overlook spectacular centuries-old rice fields。
飯桌上的蔬菜是邊上的籬笆地里現(xiàn)摘的,放眼望去是恒古壯觀的稻田。
Farmer Li's guesthouse is one of many lodgings that serve simple home-cooked dishes according to the season, for example: stir-fried pumpkin with fern shoots, or sticky rice cooked inside bamboo。
在大寨,有很多像老李家這樣的小客店,向客人提供南瓜炒筍片或竹筒飯這樣的應(yīng)季農(nóng)家菜。